If you're serious about tasting all that Rome has to offer, then purchase the "Gambero Rosso Rome" guide. The English-language edition, available for $15 from Amazon.com, is a faithful adaptation of Gambero Rosso's Italian edition and it offers a critical guide to Roman dining. As an extra bonus, there is a wonderful section on Rome's best delicatessens, butchers, pork shops, bakeries, wine bars, pastry shops and the palaces of prepared food known as salsamenteria. You might also consider picking up a copy of "Stradaroma," the standard guide to Rome's bewildering streets and piazzas.  

What follows is a snapshot of good dining options in the historical center.

DINING IN THE CAMPO

There are at least a dozen world famous restaurants in and around the Campo De' Fiori and you'll eat just fine at all of them. But like all world-famous places, they are a little too touristy and bit sclerotic these days. You'll do better at two places still largely unknown to tourists, but heavily frequented by food-savvy Romans. Both specialize in fatte en casa (made on the premises) experiences, including the breads, pastas and desserts.  Al Bric is noted for its fine Roman food and its amazing wine cellar. Open for dinner only Tuesdays through Sundays; always book in advance (No. 51 via del Pelligrino; telephone: 06/687-9533). Ditirambo is tiny, but the food is always delectable and often unpredictably creative. Lunch and dinner Tuesdays through Sundays; always book in advance (No. 74 Piazza della Cancelleria; telephone: 06/6871626). 

DINING IN THE OTHER CAMPO

There are a slew of lovely ristoranti in the Campo Marzio district, which is just north of the Piazza Navona and easily accessible by walking along the Via della Scrofa. Two restaurants merit special note. The walls of Boccondivino date to the 14^th century, but the cuisine is very up-to-the-moment (No. 6 Piazza di Campo Marzio; telephone: 06/68308626). Myosotis is a comforting, engaging family-run restaurant on a hidden street that is admittedly difficult for first-timers to find (No. 3/5 vicolo della Vaccarella; telephone 06/6865554). Always book ahead for either one. 

DINING DOWN THE STREET

One of Rome's best new trottoria happens to be located on the Via del Governo Vecchio, just a few steps off the corner of Piazza Navona. Ciccia Bomba has a bright and casual atmosphere, a well-balanced menu that seems to please everyone, and the traditional Roman daily specials (such as gnocchi on Thursdays). They fire up the wood-burning oven for dinner and that brings very tasty pizzas in both typical Roman size and extra-large perfect-for-sharing size. Open for lunch most days and for dinner every night but Wednesday. No reservations necessary (No. 76 via del Governo Vecchio; telephone: 06/68802108). 

FISH TALES

Romans love seafood, but outstanding fish restaurants aren't all that common in Rome. The reason is simple: By the scrupulous standards of Italian dining, Rome is too far from the sea to specialize in fish. Still, there are two fish houses of note very close Piazza Navona. La Rosetta, just north of the Pantheon, now has a trans-Atlantic reputation for top-notch fish served in the Sicilian style. But prices are astronomic by Roman standards (about $85 a person) and some critics are beginning to carp that La Rosetta's popularity with visitors has begun to lower its standards. Reservations a must; closed Sundays (No. 9 Via della Rosetta; telephone: 06/6861002). Few outside the Roman food community knows San Gallo, a little jewel of a restaurant that seats just 40 people. There are excellent fresh fish and seafood dishes daily. There are also two seasonal tasting menus on most evenings, one based on fish and one based on truffles. Dinner only Mondays through Saturdays; always book in advance (No. 11a vicolo della Vaccarella, at the corner of Via della Scrofa; 06/0665549).  

LUNCH WITH LEGS

Walk down the Via del Governo Vecchio any time between 11:30am and about 3pm and you'll see clusters of pedestrians walking with delectable stuffed foccacia wrapped in wax paper. The goodies come from Fratelli Paladini (No. 29 Via del Governo Vecchio), a wondrous grocery store turned sandwich shop. It has no sign and you'd probably walk by it without thinking twice at any other time of day. But the place is packed and chaotic at lunch time, filled with locals queuing up for Paladini's walkable lunches. What you'll get every time: freshly cut meats and other toppings stuffed inside Paladini's pizza bread (pizza bianca). 

MCDONALD'S

The Italians have a sneaky respect for the fast nature of McDonald's. And it's sort of fun to watch Italians eat American food for a change! But the Italians have tarted up their McDonald's just a bit. Workers are more fastidious and there is slightly more ceremony to the process. Unfortunately, the food is typically McDonald's with the exception of the espresso machines and the salad bars. (Topping the menu these days is McPink, a 100 percent pork patty being offered to diners afraid of mad-cow disease.) The closest outlet is at No. 137 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Opens at 10AM, but does not serve breakfast.  

OVER THE TOP:  SPECTACULAR VIEWS, SPECTACULAR MEALS

Two of Rome's finest restaurants are outside the Centro Storico, but both are located close enough to be within an easy cab ride and high enough in the hills to offer spectacular views of the city. La Pergola graces the rooftop of the Rome Cavalieri Hilton in the Monte Mario district. It features daring, Italian-accented continental cuisine by executive chef Heinz Beck, universally recognized as Rome's finest chef. For a really special treat, consider the extraordinary 6- or 8-course tasting menus, which must be selected by everyone at the table. Dinner only on Tuesdays through Saturdays and reservations are a must (No. 101 Via A. Cadlolo 101; telephone 06/35091). Antico Arco is located in the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill) district; ask your cab driver to stop at the scenic overlook along the way. Once you reach the restaurant, you'll find a refined, but comfortable, atmosphere; excellent, but casual, service; exquisitely articulated Roman classics, top-notch seasonal specialties, and a excellent, reasonably priced, wine list. Dinner only Monday through Saturday and reservations are a must (No. 7 Piazzale Aurelio; telephone: 06/581-5274). 

PIZZE PERFECTO

Remember that Italians are loathe to serve round pizza by the slice and most Italians prefer it as a dinner item. That said, head to the corner of the Via del Governo Vecchio and the Via Sora. There you'll find Da Baffetto, which many believe is the best pizzeria in Rome. Dinner only, starting at 6:30pm and running past midnight. The lines are always long, sometimes snaking down the block, and don't come expecting anything other than great pizza rotundo, round pies that are slightly thinner than classic Neapolitan style. Another contender for best pizza is La Montecarlo, tucked away between the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Via del Governo Vecchio at No. 12 vicolo Savelli. This place does both lunch and dinner and offers extremely low prices. The lines are also long at all times.  

PIZZA AL TAGLIO

If you must have pizza by the slice, head the wonderful Pizza Buona at No. 165 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. It's a great spot with just a few stools, a Coca Cola machine and a display case packed with delectable trays of pizze rustica, square pies that resemble the Sicilian variety. There are always more than a dozen varieties available; Pizza Buona also makes calzones, stuffed foccacias and one or two fresh-baked desserts. Pizza is sold by weight; you tell the woman what size slice you want, then she cuts it and weighs it. Prices start at 1800 lire (about 90 cents) for un l'etto (100 grams) of pizza marinara. Best of all, Pizza Buona opens from 10AM until 2AM every day.  

WINE WITH YOUR MEAL

Two of Rome's finest enoteca (wine bars) are just a few steps from Piazza Navona. Cul de Sac draws throngs to its tiny location at No. 73 Piazza Pasquino, a testament to its monumental wine list and very interesting little meals. There are also many French-inspired plates. No reservations. Il Piccolo (No. 74 Via del Vecchio Governo) offers a small menu at lunch, and simple, tasty snacks during dinner hours, but everything it offers is delectable and based on the freshest seasonal ingredients. And every wine on its huge list of Italian and foreign vintages is available by the glass. No reservations.